The spirited island hamlet south of Charleston shakes off mainland sophistication in favor of flip-flops and cash-only dive bars.

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It's only twelve miles south of Charleston's historic homes and manicured window boxes, but the salty little town of Folly Beach ditches the Holy City's refinement in favor of an easygoing, barefoot sensibility that feels a bit more California than Carolina. Known to locals as the Edge of America, Folly is everything a beach town should be. Surf shops line the main drag; cover-ups count as appropriate lunch attire; and nobody takes themselves too seriously (they drop a pair of LED-lit flip-flops to celebrate New Year's Eve). Here's where to stay, eat, relax, and play in South Carolina's super chill surf town.

Where to Stay

Every single room at The Tides Hotel comes with an ocean view. Perched at the end of Center Street, the town's main thoroughfare, the hotel is steps from both the beach and an array of local shops and eateries. For families looking to stretch out a bit more, there are a boatload of rentals to choose from: Opt for ocean-front properties that will sleep a crowd or cozy cottages with marsh and Folly River views. And for people who wouldn't dream of traveling without their four-legged companions, there are plenty of pet-friendly rentals too.

Where to Eat

You won't go hungry on this island. Lost Dog Café is a local staple, serving coffee and all-day breakfast; don't miss the eggs Benedict, which they top with fried green tomatoes. Fish tacos, Vietnamese-inspired lettuce wraps, and Cuban sandwiches all have a place on the colorful menu at Chico Feo, where the vibe is equally colorful. Don't let the easygoing atmosphere fool you: Rita's Seaside Grille is serious about its food...and its cocktails. Try one of the Signature Crushes, fruity sippers with flavored liquors that pack a punch. End the night at Sand Dollar Social Club, a dive bar where you're invited to come as you are, so long as you're a member; membership costs $1, so bring your cash (you won't find a credit card machine here).

Where to Relax

The island's six miles of beachfront are its main attraction, and it'd be easy to while away a week with no plans beyond putting your toes in the sand. Spend a day shelling, sunning, surfing, or searching for shark teeth. Enjoy oceanfront views while lunching at BLU Beach Bar and Grill. At the northern end of Folly Beach, the Morris Island Lighthouse provides a stunning backdrop from the shore. Get a closer look from the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve or via kayak. Several guided tours leave from Folly Beach to visit Morris Island for shelling, photography, and lighthouse history. The historic lighthouse is not open for viewing. How close you can get to the lighthouse depends on the tides.

Where to Play

For those looking to build an action-packed itinerary, there are plenty of activities that highlight the destination's natural beauty: Book a guided kayak tour or rent a stand-up paddleboard to explore the tidal creeks; stop by McKevlin's Surf Shop, South Carolina's oldest surfing outfitter, before catching some of the area's best waves at The Washout; and plan to make a trip with your fishing poles to check out the beloved Folly Beach Pier that has reopened after extensive renovations.

Has hunting for shark teeth become an avid hobby of yours? It can be quite exhilarating once you’ve found what you’re looking for.

Being the first person to find one of these teeth, sometimes after hours of combing through sand and searching in the sun, is an exciting reward for many.

Although these teeth can be found at any number of beaches along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, many shark teeth hunters may wonder where the best places might be to find them.

Recently, Garden & Gun, a national magazine that focuses on the American South, released a travel list for the seven best beaches for finding shark teeth.

The list, written by Emily Daily, names coastal destinations across the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, including one in South Carolina’s Lowcountry.

Well, where is it?

The South Carolina destination can be found at Folly Beach.

Folly Beach is located on Folly Island, which is just south of the Charleston peninsula. The beach plays host to the Folly Beach Pier, which stretches more than 1,000 feet into the Atlantic Ocean and is the perfect place for those on the hunt for shark teeth.

The beach offers visitors with about 6 miles of wide beaches, which makes it an ideal, expansive canvas for the hobby.

“Folly Beach is one of the most popular areas in the Lowcountry for tooth-seekers (and my personal favorite hunting ground). Renowned for its chill surfing vibes and family-friendly atmosphere, the area draws in plenty of tourists, so be sure to beat the crowds early (and preferably at low tide) for prime pickings,” Daily wrote.

“Start at the pier and work your way south. It’s an ideal location for kids to practice their spotting techniques—the teeth are plentiful here, but can be tiny,” Daily continued.

As for the remainder of shark teeth havens, other destinations include:

People like to call Folly Beach the “fun” beach, and maybe it is, especially if you’re visiting for the restaurants and bars.

But there’s also a measure of serenity here if you know where, and when, to look.

Here’s the best way to find it: Get here early; 7 a.m. should work — before the traffic on the only road in and out becomes a nightmare.

Bring the dog if you have one: From May through September, they’re allowed on the beach before 10 a.m. and after 6 p.m.

Check the tides online before you arrive: at high tide, part of this walk is underwater.

Park in the grass just outside Folly Beach County Park. Make sure your tires aren’t on the pavement or you’ll have a ticket when you get back.

Take a right when your feet hit the sand.

Keep going, past the pelicans flying so low they could dip their toes in the water, past the last jetty trying to keep the sand from washing away.

Before you’ve walked a mile, you’ll reach a bend in the beach. This is the spot.

To the left, waves lap at the coast. To the right, still water.

It feels like you’ve reached the end of the ocean. Or the beginning.

Sit in the sand. Before you head back to civilization, let the scene wash through your eyes and into your body.

Explore

The Washout

Head to the other end of the island if your companion is a surfboard instead of a dog. A spot off East Ashley Avenue known as The Washout is a favorite for surfers. A bit farther along the street, a paved trail covered in graffiti leads to a small beach with views of the Morris Island Lighthouse.

If you’re brave enough, join the kite surfers being pulled along the water on windy days, sometimes soaring high above the surface before splashing back down.

Folly Beach pier

The pier reopened in December 2022 after a two-year, $14 million rebuild. It’s 1,049 feet long. The pier has been a part of Folly Beach — you can’t miss it if you head toward the sand — since the 1930s. Pay $5 for an all-day fishing pass or just walk to the end and listen to the water.

The pier is open from 8 a.m. to sunset.

Eat and drink like a local

Lost Dog Cafe

For brunch, the go-to meal for late sleepers or early drinkers, try Lost Dog Cafe. Located in a former laundromat on West Huron Avenue, you can find breakfast and bloodies on the menu all day. Try a breakfast burrito, or grab some fried green tomatoes and a chicken salad croissant from the lunch menu. And like many other eateries in Folly, your dog is welcome to join you.

Jack of Cups

A favorite of The Post and Courier’s food editor, Jack of Cups on Center Street has a menu built for the adventurous eater. Boasting a bevy of vegetarian options on a menu the owners describe as “globally inspired,” the kitchen also cranks out dishes you probably never come across at home: Among them: Cap’n Crunch deviled eggs, dill pickle soup and unicorn pop rock cheesecake.

The Bounty Bar

Created by the owners of The Royal American in Charleston, The Bounty Bar on Center Street aspires to serve “better than it has to be” bar food. It’s open until 1 a.m. daily and has you covered whether you’re craving seafood, chicken or steak.

Chico Feo

Head to Chico Feo on East Ashley Avenue for tacos, beer and live music. Check their calendar for musical performances. Or show up on a Monday for soapbox night, when you can sign up to take the stage and show off your talent, whether it’s singing, spoken word or parlor tricks.

Shopping

If you need groceries or a quick snack, try Bert’s Market on East Ashley Avenue.

A smattering of surf and beach shops in the heart of town will have everything you need for a day on the beach, including the towel or sunscreen you accidentally left at home.

While you’re indoors — easily the worst place to be at Folly Beach — you can also pick up some souvenirs for the family members who couldn’t join you.

If you plan to spend most of your time on the beach, there are some rules you should remember:

No alcohol, glass containers, plastic bags, balloons, Styrofoam, open fires, fireworks or littering.

Surfing without a leash is prohibited. From May 15 to Sept. 15, surfing is prohibited from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from 2nd Street East to 3rd Street West. From Sept. 16 to May 14, surfing is allowed in any area. It is prohibited within 200 feet of the fishing pier.

Stay off the dunes and use public walkovers.

To protect sea turtle hatchlings, no lights are allowed that illuminate the front beach between 10 p.m. and dawn from May 1-Oct. 31. For a full list of beach rules, check visitfolly.com.

FOLLY BEACH — It’s been an expensive task for this beach city to keep its head above water in recent years.

Fresh loads of sand have been dumped five times on Folly Beach in the last three decades, a feat totaling $77 million in federal tax dollars and local funds arranged from the city, according to data from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

The federal government has allocated another $27 million for the emergency replacement of the equivalent of 90,000 dump truck loads of sand here in early 2024.

A number of factors have contributed to the frequent erosion seen on the beach. Scientists believe climate change, sea level rise and increasing storminess is at play.

But Folly Beach is a special in the eyes of the federal government because it is located down drift of the Charleston Harbor and its federally created jetties. These underwater rock walls span three miles into the water from the shorelines of Sullivan’s and Morris islands. They trap sand around Sullivan’s Island which prohibits the sand from flowing naturally down to Folly Beach, said Nicole Elko, president of Elko Coastal Consulting.

“For that reason, the only addition of sand that Folly receives is from renourishment,” said Elko, who is working as a consultant for Folly Beach.

The last few coastal storms to reach South Carolina took a toll on Folly Beach, too. Emergency renourishments were done in 2005 because of destruction from Hurricane Ophelia and in 2018 because of hurricanes Irma and Matthew.

Folly Beach lost a good bit of sand during Ian last year, too. And the city had already hit its renourishment triggers prior to the storm.

How it works

The process for renourishment is tedious and includes several steps. Engineering and design plans need to be on par before crews begin the work.

But once ready, contractors use a vacuum-like drill to agitate sand down at the seabed of a body of water. The sand then makes its way through the dredge itself. And depending on the distance from the selected seabed to the shore, the sand can be pumped directly on the beach.

Earthmoving equipment, primarily bulldozers, are then used to settle and shape the sand based on the desired design, said Jeff Livasy, the head of civil works for the Army Corps’ Charleston District.

Sand can come from several “borrow areas,” but it has to be compatible with the beach. The Folly River has been used in the past for Folly Beach.

There have been hiccups with this, though.

Rocks or cemented sands were deposited on the beach during a previous renorishment. It is unclear what year it happened.

“We assessed it and it looked like the right type of material,” Livasy said. “But how much of it was cemented together and how, yes, it can come through in large chunks like it did in that renourishment cycle, was unfortunate.”

The next renourishment project is now in the design phase, and Livasy said the Corps will try to avoid a repeat of the last mishap.

“But at the end of the day, we have the borrow sites that we have, and we will make use of them the best we can,” Livasy said.

Preserving new sand

Renourishment projects are part of the bigger beach preservation plan on Folly Beach, Elko said. Putting the sand back on the beach is the most important part.

“But then dune restoration, which includes sand fencing and native vegetation planting, is another piece of that preservation project,” Elko said.

Another important method is land management, or not building structures on the beach. This pertains to homes built on super beachfront lots that sit further out toward the shore than others.

“You want to build your houses behind the dunes,” Elko said. “You don’t want them out, exposed to wave energy, and you don’t want the environment to be affected in that way.”

Elko said the city is currently trying to stop such construction.

After the 2018 renourishment, the South Carolina Environmental Law Project filed a lawsuit challenging the ownership of newly created land on behalf of the city, Coastal Conservation League, Save Folly Beach and a group of homeowners.

The law project said a group of homeowners of super beachfront property claimed ownership of the new dry ground and took steps to pursue development there before the property reverted back to beach and ocean.

Houses on these super beachfront lots have been condemned repeatedly and add to the erosion issues.

“Are we really okay with people building houses that we know are going to be underwater within a year or two after a renourishment?” asked Amy Armstrong, an attorney with the law project. “Is that a good policy for the state?”

Folly Beach Mayor Tim Goodwin said although the case is very involved, it’s meant to protect the city’s natural resources.

Oral argument for the case were heard before the S.C. Court of Appeals on May 11.

Charleston County and Folly Beach have scored the largest flood insurance discounts in South Carolina, and few local governments in the nation have had more success in the FEMA incentive program that provides the savings.

The Federal Emergency Management Agency’s Community Rating System rewards property owners with lower flood insurance rates when their governments take steps to reduce potential damage and raise awareness.

More than 1,700 governments participate nationwide, but only two have a score better than Charleston County’s, and only nine have a score better than Folly Beach’s.

The reward is a 40 percent discount on flood insurance policies for property owners in unincorporated Charleston County — the areas that aren’t part of any town or city in the county — and a 35 percent discount for those on Folly Beach.

“It’s financially helpful, and also makes us a more resilient community,” Folly Beach Administrator Aaron Pope said.

Charleston County’s CRS score improved this year and the 40 percent insurance discount, increased from 35 percent, will be effective Oct. 1.

“I’m so proud of my team,” said Hakim Bayyoud, the county’s director of building inspection services. “A lot of other jurisdictions reach out to us for help.”

So, how did the county and Folly Beach score so highly, and why do most towns and cities in Charleston County have worse scores and lower insurance discounts?

In the county’s three largest municipalities, residents of the city of Charleston and Mount Pleasant get a 20 percent discount, and North Charleston residents get 15 percent off their flood insurance.

Part of the answer is that the best scores are usually related to more strict regulations dealing with flooding and building construction, and some governments aren’t willing to go that far.

Costs and benefits

“The more restrictions and requirements you put on development, and substantial damage and improvement (rules), the greater the discount you get,” said Matt Fountain, Charleston’s director of stormwater management. “There are other ways to get points but that’s one of the main ones.”

A good example is the “freeboard” rule that determines how high new buildings must be above base flood lines. Higher buildings mean less potential flood damage, but a sticking point comes when those rules apply to existing homes.

That’s the “substantial damage and improvement” rule Fountain referenced. If improvements or repairs to a building cost at least 50 percent of what a building is worth, it could be required to meet current building code rules, and that could mean having to elevate a home at great expense.

Charleston City Council in 2020 raised the city’s freeboard rule from 1 to 2 feet, but exempted existing homes that sustain damage equal to at least half their value. The council was responding to concerns about adding costs for homeowners who could have to rebuild after a flood or hurricane, but exempting those properties cost the city some potential CRS points.

“The potential for acute individual harm was not worth the widespread moderate benefit (of a higher insurance discount), for many council members,” Fountain said. “Once you’re down to a level six (CRS score) there’s no low-hanging fruit left.”

Charleston County adopted a 2-foot freeboard rule with no exception, and also reduced the damage threshold to 49 percent. Mount Pleasant also adopted a 2-foot freeboard rule, and on Folly Beach it’s 4 feet. All those measures help with CRS scores and flood resiliency.

Folly Beach calculates the value of building improvements over a rolling 10-year period, making the rule even stricter. And Folly Beach treats all property in the barrier island city as if it’s in a “V” flood zone, even where it’s not, which mean tougher building rules.

“The last 10 years or so, we’ve had councils that were willing, from the regulatory standpoint, to tighten up our flood-related rules,” said Pope. “It’s elevating buildings, decreasing damage from floods, and everyone on Folly Beach gets a 35 percent discount on their flood insurance.”

Fountain does not expect Charleston’s CRS score of 6 to change during an upcoming review, but said an ongoing rewrite of the city’s zoning code could help in the future.

“We just have not been as focused on points as we have been on flood reduction for our citizens,” he said, citing the city’s massive pump-and-tunnel drainage projects on the peninsula.

CRS scores range from 1, the highest, to 9, the lowest. Charleston County has a 2 and Folly Beach has a 3.

Seeking larger discounts

North Charleston and Mount Pleasant officials said they expect those municipality’s scores to improve after reviews in 2024.

“We’re hoping to go two or three stages better than we are now,” said Adam MacConnell, North Charleston’s senior projects manager. If that happens, the city’s CRS score could go from a 7 to a 5 or even a 4, which would be the third-best score in South Carolina, and flood insurance discounts could rise from 15 percent to as much as 30 percent.

“We understand that we have a lower rating than the county, and we are taking active steps to address that,” he said. “We recently set out a resilience working group in the city to address these issues, and have been doing some training with the CRS folks about improving our scores.”

MacConnell said Charleston County gets lots of its CRS points by restricting development in flood plains, and much of that comes from the county’s Greenbelt program. The Greenbelt program buys open space, but also purchases the development rights to large properties from willing owners.

Towns and cities in metropolitan areas tend to have less undeveloped land to potentially protect, but North Charleston has used county Greenbelt funds to buy or protect wetlands and watersheds.

High CRS scores also require enormous amounts of staff time and paperwork, to document all the things that can add points. The National Flood Insurance Program’s Community Rating System manual is 641 pages long.

William Horne is Mount Pleasant’s deputy engineering and development services director, and before joining the town staff in the summer of 2021 he was Charleston County’s assistant director of building inspection services. Horne said his work for the county is one reason the county’s score is so good, and he’s confident Mount Pleasant’s score will improve when FEMA does a review in 2023.

Scores are only reviewed every three to five years. Each improvement in a score comes with an additional 5 percent discount on flood insurance. So, a community with a 9, such as Columbia, gets a 5 percent discount while a community with a 3 like Folly Beach gets 35 percent off.

“I don’t see a problem with (Mount Pleasant scoring) a five,” said Horne. “I hope to be a four.”

He said documenting the town’s efforts to control stormwater, such as tightening the rules for how much of a property can be covered by impervious surfaces that don’t absorb water, will help.